![]() I will use a layer mask to show only the part of the image that I want in the final product and typically will have 4 - 6 layers with this operation. I will prepare a new layer with appropriate post-processing in the raw convertor and will then open it as a new file in the PP software and copy and paste it into a new layer. While I do this with Photoshop, Affinity Photo works the same way: This leads me to a technique that might give you the best of both worlds one that I use all the time when I do in-process sharpening. The implementation if control points is not as visual in Dfine as in some of the other Nik plug-ins. Nik does work as a plugin for Affinity Photo, for both Mac and Windows. In my experience, it is not as good as the technology in PhotoLab 2. In my testing, it seems that noise reduction is handled in a "smart" manner and only applied where it is required.ĭxO also owns the Nik collection and as John points out, they do have their control point technology (as well as a colour range technology) incorporated into the Dfine noise reduction plugin. Unfortunately, PhotoLab treats noise as a global problem and Control Points have not been added to this aspect of their software. My tool of choice for noise reduction is DxO PhotoLab 2 (a raw convertor), using their "Prime" algorithm. the raw data has not been converted into pixels, so that is where I tend to do this type of work. ![]() This is where the maximum amount of image data is available, i.e. For my Nikons I struggle to see any differences between LR and COP.Stan - in my experience, I prefer to do noise reduction during the raw conversion process. ![]() IMatch on Windows is faster but doesnt have the ease of use of LR.ĬaptureOne Pro v9.x also has catalogs but they are slower than Lightroom but for SOME (note some images from some cameras Fuji X series) there is a a difference in IQ and I prefer the COP9 output for my Fuji RAW files. This my be down to my greater experience of using LR.įor me there is no DAM that is better than Lightroom for speed and ease of use. The NikCollection works well for me in LR and Photoshop, as does the OnOne10 product, but the results out of OnOne10 are sometimes inclined to be less well controlled (noise and subtlety of changes) IMHO. I have both Nik Collection and OnOne10 along with CaptureOnePro v9.11 and Lightroom 6.5.1 and I use them interchangeably. Lightroom is much easier to learn, so I would tend to point people and my students at Lightroom if they have nothing currently. Until it has Actions a la Photoshop then while it is great to use, once you understand and learn the interface, but has limitations. Having said all of that, I have seen some excellent work with Color Efex, but for occasional use I think On1 is more accessible - but of course you are already familiar with it.ĬaptureOne Pro v9.x has Layers but what is delivered in the future may be an enhancement to this but I dont know any details. To do the same thing with Nik you have to go via Photoshop and invoke Smart Objects, which is a step too far for me. It's stored in the Catalogue, so although you can't usefully re-edit in Lightroom, you know where it is. psd which allows you to re-edit your image. I also like the large number of filters (in the paid for version), the supplied Presets (actually filter stacks), and the ease of stacking filters in general.Īnother key difference is that using Perfect Layers you can create a. Of course, it uses conventional masking rather than control points, so it's blemish remover, Perfect Eraser, for example, works very well. I think On1 is much more full featured than Nik. My main use of Nik is b&w through Silver Efex, which I like very much so I haven't explored On1's b&w module. I do have both, though 95% of my editing is in Lightroom.
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